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 An Introduction to the World's Oceans, 10/e
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 The Waves

# Multiple Choice Quiz

 1 Which of the following is not a wave generating force? A) a diver jumping in the water B) a landslide C) wind D) gravity 2 The small waves restored by surface tension are called _____________ waves. A) gravity B) capillary C) seismic D) micro 3 The wave period is the time required for two successive __________ to pass a point in space. A) troughs B) wavelengths C) crests D) Both A and C are correct. 4 Wave height is the vertical distance from the ____ to the _____. A) crest, trough B) crest, period C) period, trough D) crest, equilibrium surface 5 Wave motion is described by all but which of the following statements? A) Deep water waves represent the flow of energy through the water. B) Deep water wave orbits are elliptical in shape. C) Deep water is described as having a depth greater than half the wavelength. D) There is a very slow forward transport of water when deep water waves pass by. 6 Once a wave is generated: A) its speed remains constant. B) the period remains constant. C) the length only varies when the period shortens. D) speed varies as the period changes. 7 A wave's speed can be measured from (the): A) period and length. B) period only. C) length only. D) any of the above. 8 Which of the following statements is not correct? A) The energy in waves is deflected by the Coriolis effect. B) Waves being generated by a prolonged wind are forced waves. C) Waves progressing away from where they were generated are free waves. D) Long period waves travel faster than slow period waves. 9 Destructive interference occurs as: A) two waves that are in phase and moving in opposite directions meet. B) crests of two waves coincide and topple over. C) troughs of two waves coincide. D) the crest of one wave coincides with the trough of an oncoming wave. 10 Which of the following is not one of the factors controlling wave height? A) wind speed B) wind direction C) wind duration D) fetch 11 The maximum possible height of any given wave: A) is controlled by the density of the water. B) varies with gravity. C) cannot be more than 1/7th the wave length. D) is determined by its wind speed. 12 When a wave enters shallow water: A) the fluid nature of water overcomes the frictional resistance of the seafloor. B) the wave orbits become more circular. C) the period shortens. D) it slows as it begins to interact with the bottom. 13 The factor influencing the length and speed of shallow water waves is: A) period. B) height. C) depth. D) steepness. 14 Waves that experience refraction: A) will be moving slower closer to land. B) speed up as they near the coast. C) focus energy into bays. D) have their energy dissipated on elevated headlands. 15 Wave diffraction: A) occurs as waves pass between obstacles. B) would happen to waves passing a break water at the harbor mouth. C) causes waves to radiate outward from the obstacle. D) is accurately described by all of the above. 16 Waves breaking on narrow, steep beaches are known as: A) spillers. B) plungers. C) reflectors. D) flushers. 17 Breakers preferred by surfer dudes are known as: A) spillers. B) plungers. C) surging. D) awesome. 18 Which of the following is not an indicator of a rip current's presence? A) turbid water moving seaward B) areas of reduced wave height in the surf C) depressions in the beach running perpendicular to the surf D) areas of increased wave heights in the surf 19 Tsunamis: A) are associated with massive lunar tides. B) are classified as shallow water waves. C) are always preceded by a crest. D) are hazards to shipping lanes. 20 Which of the following does not describe standing waves? A) trough and crest stationary at the same location B) nodes where no vertical motion occurs C) may be caused by wind storms in a closed basin D) are not influenced by tides 21 Water in the wave form A) moves forward. B) responds to circular momentum. C) stops rising when the crest passes. D) has little cohesiveness. 22 What is significant about the depth of 1/2 the wavelength? A) Orbital motion of the wave persists beyond that point. B) Orbital motion of the wave is almost zero at that point. C) Orbital motion has long since ended by that point. D) Orbital motion increases to that depth. 23 Which of the following statements is NOT true about deep water versus shallow water waves? A) Deep water wave speed is affected by wave period. B) Shallow water wave speed is affected by depth. C) Deep water waves are said to "feel" bottom. D) As deep water waves move into shallow water they transition to shallow water waves. 24 Which of the following is true? A) Longer period waves travel faster than shorter period waves. B) Shorter period waves travel faster than longer period waves. C) Wave period does not affect speed. D) The wave group travels faster than the individual wave. 25 Which is NOT true about wave steepness? A) As wave height increases, steepness increases. B) As wave length decreases, steepness increases. C) When steepness = 1:7, the wave begins to break. D) Wave speed is the only factor that affects wave steepness. 26 Which is NOT true about wave refraction? A) Waves tend to bend or refract as one part of the wave enters shallow water. B) Waves converge towards headlands. C) Waves diverge in bays. D) More wave energy is concentrated in the area where the waves diverge. 27 Which of the following does not indicate the presence of a rip current? A) Higher than normal waves in the surf zone. B) Turbid water moving seaward from the surf zone. C) Reduced wave height in the surf zone. D) Depressions in the beach running parallel to the shore. 28 Which of the following is true about tsunami waves? A) They are generated by tidal forces. B) They are always deep water waves. C) They are always shallow water waves. D) They progress very slowly across the ocean and are thus difficult to detect at sea. 29 Which of the following is NOT true about standing waves? A) They oscillate around a node. B) Maximum vertical displacement is at the antinode(s). C) Minimum vertical displacement is at the node. D) Maximum horizontal displacement is at the antinode(s). 30 Which of the following waves has the longest period? A) storm waves. B) capillary waves. C) tsunami waves. D) tidal waves.

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